Europe 2012: Spain (Part 2)

On our 3rd full day in Spain we took a day trip to Toledo.  The first train we planned to take was sold out so we had to wait around for an hour or so until the next left.  We wandered the area near the train station, got a late breakfast then finally lined up to board the train.  A quick train ride on Spain's high-speed (and rather nice) train and we were in Toledo.  

Madrid's train station

En route to Toledo

It has an interesting history and a rather large, well-preserved medieval center.  At one point it was the capital of Spain and has been a home to Jews, Muslims and Christians.  We took a cab to the old city and started walking the narrow (like some so narrow I can't see how a car can pass through) historic streets marveling at the old architecture and crazy number of shops.  We toured a church then climbed to the bell tower and took in great views of the city and surrounding countryside.  After lunch and more walking/wandering/shopping we were tired and hot so decided to catch an earlier train back to Madrid.

Mosaic art in the Toledo train station 

Narrow medieval streets

View of the cathedral spires

Inside the church

Alcazar (old fortress/castle, now a museum)

Puerta del Sol - one of the entrances to the old city

We were pretty tired thanks to the day in Toledo so we planned for a low key night.  We had dinner at a cute little restaurant where one of the workers (manager or owner maybe?) gave us complimentary glasses of a home-brewed liqueur.  Not sure what was in it but neither of us were fans.  We decided to stop in at a little bar for a drink on the walk back to the apartment and met the cutest old man who was bar tending.  He made us Caipirinhas which were dangerously delicious and we attempted conversation with him (thank goodness Kirsten is pretty fluent in Spanish).  

The unknown and not very good liqueur

Mixing up a delicious concoction

This man was a drink artist!

Enjoying our libations

Our final day we decided to see the Royal Palace, the cathedral, a market and have a picnic lunch.  It was a beautiful area of the city that we hadn't seen yet so it was a great experience.  Unfortunately the entrance fees for Palace and cathedral were more than we wanted to spend so we didn't see the interior of either.  The market was quite a sight and packed to the gills.  They had cheese vendors, a huge pastry/candy vendor, as well as people selling olives, fish, nuts, potato chips, sushi, tapas, drinks and more.  We gathered a few items and made our way to a grassy area near the palace to eat.  

Fountain outside the palace

How European, no?

Violinist in front of the cathedral

At the Palace gates

Palacio Real de Madrid

Fish in the market

Olives abound

Enjoying our picnic lunch

 Later that afternoon we went to Museo del Prado which is one of the best known art museums in Madrid.  They had free entrance after 5pm so we queued up and enjoyed looking at various well-known works of art (as well as some we probably should've known but didn't).  For dinner we attempted to eat at the same restaurant as our first night but were turned away because we didn't have reservations.  We found a different place to eat and enjoyed it (although not as much as the first).  After dinner we walked to the Plaza Ciebeles and Puerta de Alcala before walking back to the apartment for the last time.

Museo del Prado

Enjoying our last dinner together

Plaza Ciebeles

Puerta de Alcala

My airport shuttle arrived at 3:30 am so I could make it to the airport for my 6am flight back home.  I was amazed at how busy the streets were at that time - more people were out at 3:30 am than 11pm!  After a short layover in Amsterdam I flew back across the pond to my wonderful husband and pup.

It was a great trip filled with culture, sights, food and fun.  In 18 days I visited 4 countries, 7 cities and countless museums, churches, historic sites, shops and restaurants.  We had our fair share of hiccups including travel issues, a day or or two of crummy weather and illness but overall the trip was wonderful.  We're planning a trip to England, Ireland and Scotland for 2013 and I can't wait!

Europe 2012: Spain (Part 1)

After spending a couple hours sitting among a group of Italian soldiers in the airport, I boarded my flight to Madrid, Spain.  I made my way to the metro, figured out how to buy the correct ticket and hopped on board.  After a few train changes and lugging my too-heavy suitcase up a flight of stairs (with a little help from a very friendly Spaniard) I found myself in the Barrio de las Letras, home base for the next 5 days.  Since mi amiga Kirsten would not be arriving until early the next morning, I had all afternoon and evening to entertain myself.  After settling into the apartment, I quickly set out to find internet, food and a much needed hair product.  I was pretty proud of myself for finding all 3 rather easily and didn't get lost!  It was fun wandering the streets, taking in the sites and just trying to absorb as much culture as possible.  I even stumbled across a really cute market, bought some delicious fresh produce and a few tasty baked goods.

The neighborhood

Cute apartment!

Great kitchen!

Cream puffs and amazing strawberries = happy me

Madrid scenery

Beautiful

 The next morning Kirsten arrived from her transatlantic (red-eye) flight.  We hadn't seen each other in 18 months so it was great to reunite!  We set out for breakfast and had a delicious meal of churros con chocolat, tea, zumo (fresh squeezed OJ) and pan de tostada.  Later we explored the Parque de Retiro which included befriending a cute kitten and a boat ride on the "lake".  After some more walking, exploring, stopping in at a few churches and lunch, we visited the market and bakery I had found the previous afternoon to load up on more goodies.  Then it was nap time!

Breakfast

Iglesia de San Jeronimo - a favorite church of the Royal Family

Met this cutie in the parque

Enjoying the sun, scenery and company 

Professional rower right here

Pork products, anyone?

Bakery display

After a little nap, we opened a bottle of wine, enjoyed the sunset from our tiny patio, then set off to find food.  We stumbled across a cool looking restaurant and ended up having a fabulous meal.  After dinner we did a little bar-hopping, came across more than a few sketchy characters but in the end we made it back to the apartment safe and sound.

Post tequila shot:  Who's idea was that?

Sangria at the club

 The next morning we were late risers.  After breakfast we spent a little time at the Caixa Forum, a free art museum with a famous vertical garden.  We also spent more time wandering around the streets of Madrid.  We then packed up a picnic lunch and headed off to see Plaza Mayor.  After lunch and a little window shopping, we stopped in a Casa Patas to make reservations for a Flamenco show that evening then headed back to rest up/prep for another night on the town.

Vertical garden at Caxia Forum

Picnic in the Plaza 

We made a quick change, enjoyed a glass (or two) of wine, then headed off to catch the Flamenco show at Casa Patas.  We settled in with some sangria and Marcona almonds to watch an amazing show.  Neither of us knew what to expect and both were pleasantly surprised with the entertainment.  The dancers and musicians were so into their performances and it made it that much more enjoyable.  After the show we went out for a dinner of tapas but were sadly disappointed with the food quality.

Sangria makes us happy!

Flamenco dancers

We still had another two full days together in Madrid so the next day we set out for Toledo.  More on our day trip and our final day in Madrid in my next post!

Europe 2012: Rome

Leaving Santorini we hopped a quick flight to Athens, waited a few hours in the airport then flew to Rome for our final destination.  In order to save money, we decided to take the bus to the center of Rome, rather than the train.  We saved about 20 euros but it took us over an hour to the get to the same spot (only 20 minutes on the train).  Ugh.  Well, we finally wandered along the dark, uneven streets to find our apartment rental.  Once checked in we headed out for dinner then called it a night.

Bus ride into Rome

Our first day we had plans to go to the Vatican Museum.  After searching for a well-rated pastry shop, we picked up some sweets for breakfast then took the metro to the stop closest to the Vatican.  We followed the crowds out of the station to St. Peter's Square.  After standing in line for security, we finally made it into the center of the square only to realize we were in the completely wrong spot.  However, we stumbled upon mass being led by the Pope, so we stood watching for a few minutes then made our way back out of the square and found the museum entrance.  The museum was amazing, filled with art and artifacts of religious and non-religious sources.  Of course there are the infamous Raphael rooms and Sistine Chapel, but there are also Egyptian Sarcophagi and Greek sculpture.  It took a few hours to go through the entirety of it and we enjoyed it all.  Unfortunately because of the Pope's mass, St. Peter's Basilica was closed when we completed our Museum tour.

If you look really close, you can see the pope in red on the steps

Raphael's The Transfiguration

Goofball

Sarcophagus with a mummy inside

Rome as seen from the Vatican

Gorgeous, ornate and intricate - and it's a ceiling!

After a quick lunch and nap we decided to  venture out for a drink at an Irish pub.  Yes, we went to an Irish pub in Italy - that's my husband for you!  We had a drink, relaxed and chatted with the bartender for a while.  On the way back, we stopped in at Santa Maria Maggiore church which happened to be in the middle of mass.  We admired the architecture and art then sat for a few minutes to listen to the mass (not sure if it was in Italian or Latin).  It was a really cool experience!

The ceiling/wall of Santa Maria Maggiore

Mass

The exterior lends no clue to the opulent interior

The next day we walked all over Rome.  We started at the Trevi Fountain which was just swarming with crowds.  Yes, I threw in a coin in hopes to return!  After we wandered aimlessly along the nearby neighborhoods getting lost while looking for a place for lunch.  During our search we stopped off at the Spanish steps and snapped a few photos until hunger propelled us along.  We finally found a little sandwich spot and after a quick lunch made our way to the Pantheon.  Its cool interior was a welcome respite from the sun.  Thanks to our Rick Steves' book we learned a little about the rather interesting history of the structure.  I convinced Corey to continue our walk, cross the Ponte Sant' Angelo and return to the Vatican in hopes of visiting St. Peter's Basilica.  Too bad I wasn't really thinking about the fact that it would be slammed on a Sunday.  One look at the line snaking its way all the way across St. Peter's square and we quickly gave up on that idea!  The walk wasn't a waste though.  We got to see really cute, old neighborhoods and stopped for gelato along the way.

Trevi Fountain 

Spanish Steps

Pantheon

The Oculus of the Pantheon

Streets of Rome

Standing on Ponte Sant' Angelo with St. Peter's in the background

That evening we had our best dinner in Rome.  Not so much because of the food (which was good) but we also met a lovely couple sitting at the table next to us.  We struck up conversation and found out they were from Scotland and were spending one night in Rome before taking a Mediterranean cruise.  We chatted about Texas, Scotland, their travels and our travels.  When we told them about our plans to visit England, Scotland and Ireland in 2013 they got very excited and immediately offered their home to us to stay.  It was an amazing thing!  Without hesitation they said they would put us up in their home, introduce us to their children and grandchildren, or even just meet us for a meal or drink.  We concluded the meal with exchanging our contact information and wishing each other well.

The next day promised rain but cooler weather.  Corey woke up feeling poorly but well enough to trek about the Colosseum, Palatine Hill and Roman Forum.  We started at Palatine Hill and were lucky when the rain stopped after about 20 minutes of being there.  By the time we made it to the Roman Forum and the Colosseum the rain had completely stopped and the sun was peeking through the clouds.  I was pleasantly surprised at how beautiful the grounds were.  There was an amazing amount of colorful flowers and green grass all over creating a stark contrast to the crumbling ruins.  It made it one of my favorite sites of our trip.

Palatine Hill

What a trooper!

Rocking the rain jacket

Flowers among the ruins

Colosseum exterior

Inside the Colosseum

Arch of Constantine

Unfortunately Corey started feeling pretty crummy after all the walking and sightseeing so we stopped off for lunch and went back to the apartment to let him rest.  Turns out we were done for the trip.  He just felt worse and worse throughout the afternoon and slept through dinner time.  We had planned on seeing Piazza Navona and Campo de Fiori that evening but it just wasn't in the cards.

After a rather sleepless night due to Corey having a fever causing him to toss and turn all night, we packed our things and headed for the airport.  I said goodbye to my poor, ill husband at security and tried not to cry as I watched him walk off.  He was heading home and I was heading to Madrid.  I couldn't help but worry if he would make it home alright.  In the best of circumstances he can let time slip away and has missed a flight before, so I was worried that being sick, in a foreign country and unfamiliar airport might be disastrous. Thankfully, he successfully made it on all 3 flights it took for him to get home.  And I made it to Madrid to meet up with a wonderful friend from PA school.  More on that next post.